I padded my way out onto the beach in the darkness, wedged my board in the sand, and donned my headlamp. The swells were about as high as my waist. I was eager to get out there, even though I’d only gotten a couple hours of sleep. It had been well over midnight before I’d caught some shuteye, having gotten back around ten after a long day, and then catching a fish to cook and eat. Now, I was up at four to catch at least a few waves before I needed to leave for the town again.
I turned the headlamp on, grabbed my board and walked into the dark sea. It looks dangerous in the dark, just as it’s supposed to. It’s fooling everyone during the day, with its blue looks and calming sounds. No, the darkness fits it better. Fits me better, now.
I paddled for my first wave, felt the surge as I caught it, and popped up onto the board.
There are no issues when you surf. There’s just you and the water. If you spare your focus on something else for a split second, you lose. You lose the wave, you lose the flow, and you may well lose your life. The focus you have to maintain makes it a world in and of itself, a place to let everything go, and just live for the moment.
Feelings are running high on the shorelines. Duo has arrived on the shores of Sanc Island and is making new friends, and enemies, among the locals as they surf their way towards the big competition.
My notes: A good old-fashioned surfer AU. Duo has come to Sanc to pursue his fallen brother's last dream of surfing the Rifts. CW for homophobia, movie-levels of violence and Gundam Wing levels of improbable healing for dramatic purposes. When you need a good feel-good read with a dose of angst to go with it, this is a good choice.